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Lower ISO settings are particularly important for getting good dynamic range during long exposures.Įdit: note that this is all a balancing act. A higher number allows the CCD to pick up more light, but also more noise. In digital cameras, the ISO setting basically equates to gain control of the CCD. Note also that setting the ISO to something like 200 or less can also make a difference. In this case, it is helping to reduce the ambient light as much as possible (without also reducing the LED's light too much). Normally, you'd use this kind of f-stop in sunny, well-lit conditions. * a large depth of field, so the LED should stay in focus the entire time shutter priority mode, with the shutter speed set to several seconds).
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If you don't have a bulb setting, you can usually get close with a long exposure setting (i.e. Not sure about point-n-shoot types these days. You will see this feature on SLRs, though not usually the cheapest ones. * Bulb basically means the shutter was manually held open for the duration of the run. Indeed! Also, what ISO setting did he use? My hubby says he used "bulb and f20" and said camera people will understand that.
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I was originally only trying to see if a time lapse of a moving LED would work for using on a drone to make 3D spirals. It was such a simple idea and so easy to implement that I was startled at the results when I saw the first picture. I think his camera is a Canon T4i and he had a Canon EFS 18-135mm lens on it mounted on a tripod. It was a time lapse which he started and stopped at the same time I started and stopped the robot. I know zilch about photography, it is his hobby. As for the photography I will get my husband to tell me how he set his camera. I have to wait for night time to do the photography because there are too many skylights in my house to make any room completely dark. I moved the light to a better place and will redo the spiral squares tonight also. You can see that in this picture where the light is only about 1/2 inch off the pivot point. One reason I did not use the built in LEDs is they did not produce a real good looking light streak in the picture and they are way off the pivot point of the robot which changes the way the spirals look. And yes Whit the programming port was lit up from light bleed.
#Fwsim forum full version#
You receive the full version immediately via E-Mail and if you don't like it, you get your money back - no questions asked.Erco, I will be photographing a figure eight tonight. You can combine these elements in any way you like and build completely new effects.įWsim 2.0 is free to try for 7 days. You can add ascent effects, crackling, pistil, strobe stars, whistle, farfalle, tourbillon, crossette stars and color-changing stars.
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You can build, for example: Shells, Mines, Rockets, Cakes, Bengal Flames, Catherine Wheels, Roman Candles, Fountains, Multi-break shells, Shells of Shells, Comets, Waterfall Shells, Palms, Tigertails, Figure shells (Heart, Ring, Atomic Pattern, Half-Sphere) and Ground Shells. When you have finished building the fireworks display of your dreams, you can upload it to YouTube in HD.
#Fwsim forum professional#
FWsim simulates both professional and consumer fireworks, you can even build your own rockets. The sounds are recorded from real fireworks and are automatically selected so that every possible effect sounds realistic. You can build your own effects: Just take fireworks parts (e.g.